WOMAD 2011
Friday 29th to Sunday 31st July 2011Charlton Park, Upper Minety, Malmesbury, Wiltshire, England MAP
£135 for three days, teenagers (14-17) £70, under 13s free
Daily capacity: 22,500
It was an easy journey to the site, and we found the well signposted box office with ease, drove in for a 'vintage' weekend and set up on 'early bird' Thursday. It was only seven hours to wait for the first act, so we relaxed with a few beers.
It's a short walk back to the main open air stage via some nice smelling caterers and a chance to see Bellowhead in their pomp. The band who are given an award tonight, not for their ale on sale in the bar but for their album 'Hedonism'. What an early treat the 12 strong headliners gave us, and before long the field is moving to their energetic full live music. 'New York Girls', and 'London Town' provide an opportunity for a decent singalong.
Time for a cider (Old Bristolian) and a chance to relax on the litter free grass under the fluttering flags and watch El Tanbura, with their Sufi chants, ancient lyres and wheeling rhythms. The audience was nowhere near the one million-strong crowd when they played Tahrir Square during the Egyptian revolution. The band revel in the music swapping singing duties on their patriotic songs, dancing and waving flags.
I've been recommended Pacific Curls who were at the Taste The World Stage earlier. The New Zealand and Scottish fusion trio prove an entertaining watch, it's not just about the Polynesia/Celtic music, but we also get stories and Maori tales. The tunes aren't bad either, and they know how to work a crowd. The three girls talk of fiddle player Sarah Beattie's imminent pregnancy and the fact that they might not play together for a while, let's hope that's not true.
Wandering back past the Charlie Gillett stage Aurelio & The Garifuna Soul Band's Carribbean fused guitar sounds amazing, and by comparison Dub Colossus rocking the Siam tent sounded slightly flat. I can't believe I've just written that, but I do have to see the Honduran guitarist for longer next time.
Whilst Dub Pistols drive the youngsters crazy in the Red Tent and allegedly are asked to stop for 15 minutes to let them cool off a bit, there's a spellbinding fusion of Cuban and West African music on the main stage. What a fantastically potent combination, and it's clear both sets of musicians are enjoying this musical blend of virtuosity.
Time for headliners and I go to watch a little of Mungos Hi Fi, and some of their original reggae and dub before hot footing it down to the main stage to be blown away by the set of the weekend. Alpha Blondy's rocked up reggae is just spell binding, really one of the best acts I've seen in some time, and one of the best headlining sets I've ever seen at WOMAD, and we even get to hear some new material, terrific!
Saturday's self induced hangover means I miss The Bear Beats Band and AnDa Union both I discovered would have been worth seeing. As is Wales' 9 Bach whose moody dark tunes wrought from harp and xylophone make me feel much better. I feel positively invigorated after Susheela Raman soothes my soul with her well blended world music on the BBC3 Stage.
Back in the main arena Ana Moura on the Siam, and Vieux Farka Toure on the Main Stage are revelations. The latter shows amazing dexterity on his guitar, and desert energy flows from the speaker stacks. The former's voice is nearly as technical, and both provide a terrific two hours of musical excellence.
Oi Va Voi's world fusion provides a familiar breather and a good time to eat half a chicken from the rotisserie before squeezing into the crammed Siam Stage along with what seemed like most of the rest of the festival to see guitar duo Rodrigo Y Gabriela totally blow us away with their complex high energy playing, another outstanding performance from the Mexican pair.
Baaba Maal was a much more mature alternative, sat on the stage he slowly builds the acoustic set adding Senegalese drumming guests to pivot the set to a more vibrant second half. By the end we're left desperately wanting more, as it seems Baaba's just got into his stride, and we're dancing along, and given another hour the set could have been incredible!
The blond haired Danyel Waro from Reunion Island brings what it seems to me is the sounds of Africa to the Siam tent using various old school instruments. Until I get up close, under the amazing designs glowing in the roof of the Siam, I had presumed he was a young man he spills so much energy, but he's actually in his mid-fifties.
The attempt was made with the help of current Air Guitar UK Champion, Thom 'W!ld Th!ng 37' Wilding, and Justin Adams informs us we've beaten Austrlia's record of 1,883 people with 2,227 people turning up to rock the main stage with Jimi Hendrix's 'Purple Haze'.
A late brunch is then spent listening to The Savoy Family Cajun Band who play laid back cajun country song, foot tapping stuff, I like their music and they're another act I'd like to see again, properly. Away from the main stage the festival is much more packed and by the time we get to the Red Tent to see Penguin Cafe, not only is the tent full but the area around it is so packed that crowds sprawl all the way to the steam fair.
Kitty Daisy & Lewis have beefed up the rockabilly sound since I last saw them in 2007, the banjos have gone replaced by keyboards, but the band members still swap roles on stage. It takes a while to settle in to them, and their music takes on a new dimension when the bring out Ska Cubano's trumpeter, Jamaican legend Eddie 'Tan Tan' Thornton to funk up their set with his ska notes.
I also want to see Ebo Taylor so I skank out at half time to groove to his mellow Afrobeat, I'm so glad WOMAD brought him out of retirement to play for us, and I loved his crazy Sunday curtain suit and hat combo.
I Am Kloot's lead singer has been here the last few days and says he's seen and heard some amazing things, including blues from blind Chinese monks, and keeps our interest between songs talking about the festival. Most of the tunes they deliver are from 'northern Skies' and played wonderfully, not surprisingly they get rapturous applause once their allotted hour is up.
Another has to be the legend that is Booker T, who has a hit packed set, and a fantastic backing band. We all sing along, and the crowd dance in union to songs like 'Green Onions' which Booker tells us he penned when he was just 16. More hits follow including 'Take Me to the River', and 'Hold On, I'm Comin''. With so many years of live performance he clearly he know how to deliver and has the delighted crowd eating out of his hand. Any hope of seeing Frenchman Chapelier Fou goes out the window.
Headlining the Charlie Gillett and billed on WOMAD fm as tonight's headliners are Bristol's Smerins Anti-Social Club who bring a packed crowd amongst other things their dubbed up horn laiden 'Dr Who Theme'. Guest singer Nuala Honan added an extra dimension to some of the jump about tunes like 'Disco Borka', even when not singing she zips animatedly around the stage working the crowd up, with Dom Coyote also providing an extra vocal dimension. Their set includes the dubby 'Sway' and the swing number 'Alibi', and they brought my weekend at WOMAD to a funked up hands in the air close.
I have to wonder how they will top this line-up for the 30th Anniversary next year!
review by: Scott Williams
photos by: Karen Williams / Phil Bull
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